When a home containing poly piping is placed on the market, buyers will often discount the price (due to the material defect) – even if the poly has not yet shown any leaks – because it is known that poly piping will leak eventually. If a seller is aware, it is wise to replace any poly piping before putting a house on the market.

There are currently no laws specifically regarding the disclosure of poly piping on a property, but some property brokers have been sued for not disclosing the presence of polybutylene piping in buildings they sell. Real Estate brokers selling homes containing poly piping should be prepared to be held liable if buyers have a non-disclosure complaint. At the very least, both sellers buyers should be provided with some sort of information regarding poly piping and its dangers, and sellers should be given the opportunity to replace their piping before putting their home on the market.

Our Top Flushing Toilets of 2009 come from two companies, Gerber and TOTO. These toilets are a step above the rest because they are dedicated to high quality and high performance. But their best feature is that they are all energy and water conserving toilets. By choosing one of the these top flushing toilets you will not only save money but conserve water too.

Good: Maxwell – The Starting line of Performance

Gerber’s Maxwell Series toilet is an elegantly styled, gravity-fed, two-piece toilet with a slim line tank; siphon-jet action; a reverse trap design; an 10 x 8-1/2″ water surface; and a glazed trapway.

Better: Viper – Ugrade to High Performance!

The Gerber Viper High Performance Toilet is a low water consumption toilet that has a gallon per flush rate of 1.6and 600 to 750 grams of bulk waste removal. This style toilet has a Slim Line Tank. This toilet has a dual feed siphon jet. When you purchase the Gerber Viper you will save money on your yearly water bills.

This toilet is not big and bulky it actually measures in at 28-5/8 inches in height x 28-5/8 inches in width x 29-3/4 inches in depth. The water trap way is about 2″ with a water surface of 10-1/2 inches x 8-3/4 inches. The Viper has a water seal of 2-1/8 inches and a water to rim length of 5-1/4″. Due to the 1.6 gallons per flush, it is one of the best rated toilets in the industry. You will not only save money but you are also contributing to water conservation too. It also will provide a reliable and dependable flush every time. Don’t let the low water consumption fool you. Even though this toilet is in fact rated to use fewer gallons per flush, Gerber didn’t lose any of the high quality or high performance of the Viper High Performance Toilet. The fully glassed trap way has a 2″ opening and has been tested with a 2″ ball and that passed through the system with flying colors. With that being said, you can have confidence that any waste will pass through the system without any problems.

Best: Avalanche – Defies Gravity Like No Other!

The Gerber Avalanche Super Toilet is the newest toilet in the Gerber Inventory. This toilet is 17 inches in Ergo Height is ADA compliant, which means that it meets, and all of the industry standards and expectations. The Avalanche is a low water consumption toilet; this toilet is rated to use 1.6 gallons per flush or less. It has the capacity to get rid of 1000 grams of bulk waste.

The Gerber Avalanche Super Toilet measures in at 18-1/4 inches in width, 31 inches in depth and 30-3/4 inches in height. The rim height on this toilet is 17 inches and has a rim to water surface of 5-1/4 inches. The water seal that is used to keep water from leaking is about 2-1/2 inches. The Avalanche is designed with a nice slim line tank that has a color matching side trip lever. This toilet is built to last.

Drake: The TOTO Drake Toilet by TOTO is one of the most popular brands in the toilet industry. The company has been on business for over 90 years, the company uses the best technology and the best specifications. The TOTO Drake Toilet is available in 3 different styles the Close Coupled Round Toilet, High Performance Two Piece Toilet and the Eco High Efficiency Two Piece Toilet. Each of these toilets is rated with a 1.28 gallons per flush to a 1.6 gallons per flush. These TOTO Drake Toilets are the most efficient in the industry.

The Drake Toilets are 125% bigger than the other standard flush toilets. The Close Coupled Round Tank comes with the G Max Flushing System and the E max Flushing Systems. These systems are designed to be high rated and high performance. These systems are put into place to guarantee an accurate and clean flush every time. Unlike the Gerber Avalanche who uses a 2″ trap way system the TOTO Drake Toilets are designed with a 2-1/8 inch trap way system.

If you are looking for high performance and style and design the TOTO Drake Toilet is it. Each toilet has a 3″ flush valve.

Pinhole leaks are a major concern to homeowners as they may:

• be costly, given the effort required to find and repair each leak
• result in highly variable amounts of water damage per occurrence
• lead to loss of water resources from undetected leaks in service laterals
• lead to growth of mold and mildew
• result in higher premiums for or cancellation of homeowner insurance

There is also a legitimate concern for consumers that one leak might soon follow another. Insurance companies often raise premiums or simply do not renew policies, and homeowners distraught over leaks can reach the point they do not feel comfortable leaving the house without first turning off the water.

What is a Pinhole Leak?

A pinhole leak is a final breakthrough event of the progressive attack of pitting corrosion on copper water plumbing. A copper water plumbing system can be in a condition of having significant damage by pitting corrosion, but not have pinhole leaks. The challenge is how to discover pitting corrosion before pinhole leaks develop. Figures 1 and 2 show a pinhole leak in a copper pipe.

The State of Maryland Task Force to Study Pinhole Leaks in Copper Plumbing defines a copper pinhole leak as “the perforation of copper tube, pipe or fittings used for domestic water distribution as the result of pitting corrosion initiated on the interior/waterside surface with the subsequent leakage of water.“

How Many Homes are Affected?

There is no comprehensive source of information on the occurrence of pinhole leaks. Many utilities and water authorities have collected thousands of reports, submitted voluntarily by residents who have experienced pinhole leaks. Often, homeowners consider pinhole leaks as a plumbing problem, and do not report them to their water utility.

Where Do Pinhole Leaks Happen Most Often?

Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970.

What is Copper Piping and Why is it Used?

Copper piping has been used for domestic water supply for over 50 years. Since 1963, over 5.3 million miles of copper plumbing tube has been installed in about 80 percent of all U.S. buildings. Copper is the most widely used material for plumbing systems because of its ease of use, resistance to corrosion, and resistance to permeation by liquids and gases, which may be sources of corrosion and contamination.

Copper tubing used for domestic water supply and distribution is manufactured to meet specification B88, Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Water Tube, established by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). According to the Copper Development Association Inc.’s Copper Tube Handbook:

“All tube supplied to these ASTM standards is a minimum of 99.9 percent pure copper and silver combined. The copper customarily used for tube supplied to these specifications is deoxidized with phosphorus and referred to as C12200 (Copper No. 122) or DHP Copper. Other coppers may also be used.”

In addition to copper, there is a maximum of 0.04 percent phosphorus in copper tubing. The techniques for manufacturing copper piping are the same now as they have been for decades.

Copper (Pitting) Corrosion

There are many forms of corrosion, but pitting corrosion is most likely to culminate in pinhole leaks in copper plumbing. Pitting corrosion is the non-uniform localized attack of the wall of copper tube, pipe, or fittings initiated on the interior/waterside surface in the domestic water distribution system, in which only small areas of the metal surface are attacked, while the remainder is largely unaffected. Pitting corrosion starts on metal surfaces for unknown reasons, and some combinations of water chemistry factors allow the process to continue while some do not. Pitting corrosion can be classified into three types:

Type I pitting is associated with hard or moderately hard waters with a pH between 7 and 7.8, and it is most likely to occur in cold water. The pitting is deep and narrow, and results in pipe failure.

Type II pitting occurs only in certain soft waters, with a pH below 7.2 and occurs rarely in temperatures below 140º F. The pitting that occurs is narrower than in Type I, but still results in pipe failure.

Type III pitting occurs in cold soft waters having a pH above 8.0. It is a more generalized form of pitting, which tends to be wide and shallow and results in blue water, byproduct releases, or pipe blockage.

What Causes Pinholes?

Several studies and research projects have been conducted to determine the possible cause of pinhole leaks in copper pipes, but no definitive causes have been established. Some blame it on the chemicals in the water, while others blame it on workmanship and temperature gradients. The list below illustrates the different variables that are thought to cause pinhole leaks. These variables demonstrate the complexity of trying to pinpoint the suspected causes.

Sources of Suspect Pinhole Causes

The suspect causes for pinhole leaks come from different sources.

Factors that do not contribute to pinholes

Studies have shown that many factors that were thought to contribute to pinhole leaks in copper pipes have been proven otherwise or have little scientific basis.

Repair Options

Currently, homeowners have several options from which to choose. However, none of the options address the root cause of the problem; they simply try to correct the symptoms. Most of the options are also costly. These options include:

• Fixing the leak by application of external solder
• Replacing a small or larger section of tube
• Re-plumbing the entire house (However, even a complete re-plumb with new copper tubing does not guarantee that the problem will not recur after a period of time.)
• Re-plumbing and replacing copper with PVC or CPVC
• Coat the inside of existing pipes with epoxy – see the Epoxy Pipe Lining Technology Inventory item
• Purchasing potential cures (of questionable value), such as magnets

Pinhole Leak Prevention

It is difficult to totally eliminate or prevent copper pitting. However, there are a few things you can do to reduce them, such as:

• Examine accessible/exposed copper piping for small, bluish-green stains on the pipes – away from joints. This can be an indication of a pinhole leak. Call a licensed plumber immediately at the first signs of leaks. (Bluish-green stains on copper pipes do not necessarily indicate there is a pinhole leak – they can appear on copper pipes in a damp environment, such as the basement.)
• Before purchasing a home, self inspect plumbing (or have a licensed plumber do so), ask about the plumbing history, and find out how long the house has been vacant, if applicable.
• Purchase pipe clamps from any hardware store and install them over pinholes to stop leaks until repairs can be made.
• Have your water tested for pH value. It may be necessary to do this a number of times at several day intervals, to catch variations. Your water pH should always be higher than 7. If it isn’t, talk to your water department.

Reference Materials

• Task Force Study – Final report on MD Task Force on pinhole leaks in copper pipes “Pinhole Leaks in Copper Plumbing.”
• www.mdarchives.state.md.us/msa/mdmanual/26excom/defunct/html/10copper.html
• Symposium – Copper Plumbing Tube Pitting
• www.copper.org/environment/NACE02122/nace02122c.html
• J.R. Meyers and A. Cohen, “Pitting Corrosion of Copper in Cold Potable Water Systems”, Materials Performance, 34 (10), October 1995
• “Corrosion of Copper in Potable Water Systems.” Internal Corrosion of Water Distribution Systems, 2nd Edition. AWWA Research Foundation and DVGW-Technologiezentrum Wasser, 1996.
• VA Tech research: Rushing and Edwards, 2004, and Marshall,

Plastic fittings are the only problem:

Fiction. The systems with metal fittings fail as well. However, it is true that systems with plastic fittings have more failures, experience tells us that all Polybutylene Piping Systems, whether they have metal fittings or are manifold-type systems will fail. Both metal fitting systems and manifold systems contain polybutylene piping and can have plastic valves, both of these are subject to failure.

Replacing your polybutylene pipes is expensive:

Expensive is a term that only you can define. The actual cost of   repipe (including drywall and paint), is usually much less than installing vinyl windows or basement waterproofing, providing you use a contractor that is familiar with repiping and is able to do the complete job including the drywall repairs and repainting. They have the personnel to give you a quality job, and they will do it more efficiently, with less damage, inconvenience, and most importantly, for less cost.

Polybutylene problems occur because of poor installation:

Fiction. Although installation quality may be a factor in poly leaks, in most cases installation is not the primary cause. Factors contributing to the leaks include degeneration of piping and fittings, water quality, chlorine levels, and age. Over time, some or all of these factors will contribute to the systems failure.

I inspected my own pipes and they look fine:

Fiction. The problem is that most failures occur in pipes that look fine even to a plumbing professional, so unless you have x-ray vision, a visual inspection is almost pointless.

The polybutylene in my house has lasted for more than ten years, so it’s fine:

Fiction. Depending on the water quality in your home, it can take years for polybutylene piping to fail. It may leak within a few years of installation, but the majority of leaks start to occur in the 10-15 year time frame.

You can easily sell your home with poly:

Most real estate agents tell us that homes with poly have sold for less and may take longer to sell. A home inspector may flag the problem, and the homeowner has the pipes replaced before the house gets marketed. The seller and the buyer may come to an agreement to have the pipes replaced or negotiate the price.   We have no informatin on how many prospective buyers will simply ignore homes with polybutylene pipes because they recognize it as a potential problem from the start.

My insurance covers the damages if the pipes leak:

Fact. Water damage from leaking pipes is typically covered by most homeowners policies. But the your insurance company may decide to increase your premium after a claim, or they may decide not renew your policy.

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Problems With Polybutylene

Although some poly piping problems stem from improper installation, most complaints are with the integrity of the piping itself. Polybutylene pipe is known to deteriorate due to contact with oxidants normally found in public water supplies. The failure can occur in the plastic fittings or in the pipe itself. A main concern regarding poly pipe is that, since the oxidants are carried in the water, the pipe deteriorates from the inside. This makes it very difficult to determine if the pipe is truly in good condition. Most home inspectors cannot give a reliable assessment on the condition of poly piping unless there is a visible problem with the exterior of the pipe or its installation. In addition, when a leak occurs, it may be extremely severe because the deterioration occurs from within.

Poly pipe leaks are unpredictable and there are no symptoms to warn of an impending leak. Some factors that affect polybutylene piping adversely can include:

• Poor installation
• Water quality
• Pipe age
• Chlorine levels
• Deterioration of fittings (both metal and plastic)

When polybutylene pipe reacts with the oxidants in normal tapwater, it becomes brittle, sometimes scaling or flaking. This results in a fracturing of the interior surface of the pipe, which allows for more deterioration. Eventually the pipe will begin to leak, causing damage throughout a home. Poly pipe with plastic fittings or with metal fittings will eventually incur damage; poly piping is not a reliable piping under any circumstances. If a pipe has been leaking for some time without the knowledge of a homeowner, severe structural damage to the home can result, making repairs extremely difficult.

Damage from polybutylene pipe leaks can be expensive, in some cases more than the original cost of the house. Insurance companies sometimes cancel or refuse policies for homes with known poly piping problems, and it is difficult to market a home that has such an unreliable plumbing system.

How to Tell If You Have Poly

Exterior – Polybutylene underground water mains are usually blue, gray or black. It is usually 3/4″ or 1″ in diameter, and it may be found entering your home at the meter (if located inside) or where the main shutoff valve is located.

Interior – Interior polybutylene pipes are typically gray in color and are usually visible by your water heater and leading to sinks and toilets. In many cases, polybutylene and copper was used in combination, so even though you may see copper pipe coming out of the wall, polybutylene may still be in place behind your walls and ceilings.

Will the Pipes Fail?

It has been reported that the additives used in fighting bacteria, like chlorine, attack parts of polybutylene pipe and fittings leading to cracking and ultimate failure of the system. Unfortunately there’s a misconception that if your pipes haven’t leaked yet, they never will. This is not true. The longer polybutylene is in use, the greater the chance of having a major leak. Polybutylene pipe with plastic fittings or metal fittings will eventually fail. It is believed that other factors including improper installations can contribute to the failures of polybutylene piping.

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How long does the polybutylene replumb take?

A: An average home will take from 5 to 8 days including all drywall patching and re-painting, depending upon the layout of the home.

Q: Which replacement pipes do you recommend?

A:We highly recommend replacing your PB pipes with CPVC. We use the FlowGuard Goldbrand exclusively. CPVC piping has been around for over 50 years. It is an off-white “plastic” pipe. It is quiter than traditional copper pipes and come with a manufactures 25-year warranty. However, we will re-pumb your home using traditional copper pipes. With copper, the cost of the project will be at least $500 to $1,000 higher, depending on which grade of copper is selected.

Q: Would my water be turned off through the entire polybutylene Replumbing job?

A: No, only during the days of the plumbing phase while we are installing the new piping system. We make sure the water service would be restored each evening.

Q: Will I be able to stay in my home during the process of your polybutylene RePlumbing project?

A: Yes, you will be able to go about your daily routine. We do use plastic sheathing and put down drop clothes to reduce the dust to just the areas we are working.

Q: Do we need to be home during the process of your RePlumbing?

A: No, we would just need to arrange access to your home, and our crew will lock up at the end of the day. Our crews are employees. As a licensed contractor, we are bonded and insured.

Q: Does the polybutylene replumbing process require a permit?

A: We provide all permits and inspections from the local jurisdiction, and the cost of the permits is included in our estimate.

Q: What will I need to do prior or during the polybutylene re-plumbing?

A: You will need to remove any items from under your sinks and remove any fragile items, pictures, electronics, “nick-nacks” from the work areas. We ask for you to remove any furniture and rugs that are easily moved. We will cover or move any heavy items. The estimator will inform you in which areas that we will be working.

Q: If I have any questions before, during or after the replumbing, whom would I speak with?

A: The technician on the job or you can call the office at 301-881-8660 and you will be connected to someone that will be able to answer your questions and concerns.

Q: Will there be any dust or debris that I should be concern about or would it interfere with my normal routine, while I am at home?

A: We do our best to try not to interrupt your normal routine, and we do clean up our work area at the end of each day. However, the job does include working with drywall. So, there will be some dust. We do our best to minimize the dust and make sure to be respectful of you and your family.

Q: How will you get to the piping?

A: We will cut access holes in the walls and ceilings only as it is necessary to access the pipes for removal and installation. Roughly sections of 2 x 2 are removed as necessary. The estimator will walk you through where we will need to remove the drywall and how much drywall you can expect to be removed. Our drywallers do an excellent job of finishing.

Q: Can a start date and completion date be arranged?

A: Yes, we can assure you of a start and completion date, however, due to the inspection scheduling of the local authority, we can be delayed by as much as a day due to their inspection process.

Q:Once the re-plumbing is completed, will I be able to winterize my outside hose bibbs?

A: Follow these simply steps to assure you will not have fozen pipes:

• Close the hose bibb valve inside
• Remove any garden hose connected to the bibb.
• Open the hose bibb (leave it open)
• Drain vaccuum breaker (located on the hose bibb, exact location will vary with manufacturer)
• Open bleed valve on inside hose bibb valve.
• Look for the “HOSE BIBB TAG” attached to the inside valve for these instructions as well.

Q:Can you do some other painting or plumbing while you are here?

A: Yes, we offer a full range of plumbing services, as well as interior drywall and painting services. In fact, you’ll save time and money by scheduling other work while we are already at your home.

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Q: Why do faucets leak?

A: Leaks occur when seals inside the faucet become dirty or worn. Though you may choose to replace worn parts, replacing your old faucet with a new one can upgrade the look of your kitchen, bathroom or tub/shower decor and avoid further repair problems.

Q: Why do some faucets cost so much more than others?

A: Some faucets are simply made better than others with higher quality materials such as solid brass or a mixture of brass and plastic. There are also two different grades of brass, yellow brass and red brass with red being the most durable of the two. There is also a difference between brands on the quality of the internal parts used. All of these differences help to determine the superior levels of appearance, performance and durability.

Q: Can I replace my two-handle faucet with a single-handle faucet?

A: The answer in most cases is yes. Generally, faucet dimensions and sink openings are standard throughout the plumbing industry. There are few exceptions however, so it is a good idea to check sizes first.

Q: How should I clean polished brass faucets?

A: To remove dry water spots, use warm water and a soft, damp cloth. Never use cleansers that contain abrasives, harsh chemicals, alcohol or other solvents. To maintain the luster of your decorator faucet, occasionally apply a high quality automotive wax – making sure that it does not contain abrasives.